There is a side of me that thinks writing this post is a big mistake. The hike I'm about to describe isn't all that hard, but it leads to a canyon that is one of the most beautiful places I've ever been. Not spectacular beautiful like the Grand Canyon or Yosemite Valley, but a simple beauty that sneaks up and overwhelms. Too, I've never seen another person on this route. I would guess that there are probably no more than 50 or so trips a decade to this hidden canyon, and I make a dozen or so of those myself. I probably shouldn't write this, because I may loose the privacy that is one of the draws of this hike.
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I drove north from the Mojave National Preserve Visitor Center at Kelso and parked my car at the marked Globe Mine Road. Globe Mine Road is a dirt track that crosses the railroad tracks, and while it's not marked off limits to motorized vehicles, it's only a mile or so to a wilderness area boundary, so it doesn't make sense to do anything other than walk from the paved road. The temptation is to follow the main dirt route, but I broke to the right at a dirt road junction just yards from the rail line. For most of this walk, I'd be breaking to the right. At first, it's difficult to realize that this route is worth the effort. The low, scrub desert is open, and way too hot to walk at any time of the year other than winter. The Providence Mountains in the distance are nice, but can be seen just as well from the road. Sandy, not the best footing, and a steady pace in an open space that doesn't seem to change even with the slight gain in elevation makes one wonder if it's all worth it. The Mojave National Preserve is loaded with nice walks just off the paved road and at first this walk seems to be nothing special.
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Indeed, judging by the time it took me to walk it, the first couple of miles is monotonous and not all that fun. But, a bit of persistence pays off. Eventually a low ridge blocks the way, and continuing to break right on multiple dirt tracks, a small canyon can be seen. Entering the canyon, with low walls on either side, it's only a matter of picking an easy place to climb up to the ridge line on the right. I'd advise not climbing up too soon. As the canyon walls get a bit higher, the canyon closes in a bit, makes a few curves, and is well worth a bit of exploration, even if it means doubling back before climbing out of the canyon.
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Once on the ridge line, there is a dirt road that goes down into a very broad and deep wash. It's difficult to imagine that there was a time when there was enough water in the high desert to carve such a waterway, but there it is, dominating the landscape. Looking down the wash, after it leaves the mountains, it opens up into a broad desert plain. I followed the dirt road down onto the wash floor and looked straight across where I could see a break in the opposite wall that would allow me an easy, though steep, route to the top of the ridge line that defines the edge of the wash. Remembering that everything in the high desert, sticks, cuts, stings, or punctures, I worked my way up to the ridge line only to see that there is yet another wash on the other side.
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Eventually I'll need to be in that wash, but for the time being I stayed on the ridge that separated the two dry waterways, and worked my towards the Providence Mountains. It does climb of course. This route is all about gaining elevation, but the gain is gentle on the ridge, and it allows for a leisurely walk with nice views down into either of the two washes. Looking to the south, it's possible to see the broad valley that the paved road and railroad use through the center of the preserve. Looking slightly to the west, the Kelso Dunes can be seen, and looking to the east, a series of ridges and mountains that curl up towards the Providences.
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And then I could see them; two canyons that share the same mouth cutting into the mountains. Again, I chose the route that broke right. I've walked both these canyons, and they are both beautiful but I prefer the one to the right. I entered and began climbing almost immediately. Here and there, there are signs of past human encroachment. Near the top of the canyon there are a couple of long abandoned mine shafts, and it's still possible to fine rusted cans and tools near the canyon's entrance.
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It doesn't take long for what had been a very open route, to narrow to what most people would think of as a real desert canyon. With red and brown rock walls on either side, things continue to get narrower and narrower. Here and there it is necessary to crawl, climb, or wriggle around some rock. Mostly it's a matter of picking a way around plants that have more sharp barbs than can be found on the military's best razor wire. Slowly, but surely, I made my way up. Eventually after a very narrow part, but not anything like a slot canyon, things opened up into a broad basin not far from the escarpment of the Providence Mountains. Slowly things curl to the right (Always to the right.) and with a bit of bush-whacking the canyon ends.
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The route back down the canyon is the same. It's not until I was back in the wash that I was able to vary my return trip somewhat. I climbed up onto the separating ridge of the two washes at a different spot and descended into the largest of the two almost immediately. I crossed over to the rock walls on the eastern side of the route and worked my way down the wash. I picked a different spot, yet again, to get back to the ridge line above the narrow canyon described earlier and descended at yet another, different spot. One of the problems with hiking in the winter is that the days are shorter, and I didn't have the time to go exploring, looking for places I've yet to find in the high desert. I worked my way back to the dirt road I used in the morning and began the long walk back to my car. Now, as long as there were no trains on the tracks blocking my way, I was home free. There weren't on this trip, but trains have sat and idled, blocking Globe Mine Road on other trips. There are bridges going over small washes in either direction, and it's only a matter of finding one and then doubling back to the car.
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I won't even guess on the miles. I took me about seven hours, but even that doesn't really tell much since I did a bit of exploring, and a bit of resting so my usual math of 2.5 to 3 miles an hour won't hold. Of course, it's possible to scale things out on a map, but my resistance to following straight lines makes a hash of that. To get to the Mojave Preserve Visitor Center, the old Kelso Train Depot, from I-15 going towards Las Veges from southern California, exit at Baker and take Klebaker road to the station. Go left (For a change.) towards Globe Mine Road and Cima. The sign is the same as the street signs that are used to identify city streets, so it's easy to miss. Pictures to follow in the next post.
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